Chayote Squash Salad


Chayote has a fresh, almost fruity crunch when it is done right. The hard part is taming the raw grassy taste without cooking it to death. Salt and a light dressing do most of the work.

Time

About 2 hours mostly waiting, then a few minutes to dress and serve.

Ingredients

chayote: 1 or 2, depending on size. Pick firm ones with smooth skin. salt: generous amount for the pre-soak step, not all of it stays in the final dish. Sichuan pickled chili (泡椒): a few peppers plus a spoonful of their brine, or to taste. vinegar: rice vinegar or whatever you like with pickled chili; add until it tastes bright, not heavy. optional: a little sugar if the brine is not enough balance; garlic or cilantro if you want extra aroma.

Preparation

  1. Do not peel the squash. Trim the stem end and blossom end (the shallow cup where the ridges meet), remove the seed, then cut into finger-sized sticks or wedges, roughly the size you would eat in one bite. The skin stays on; it is thin and adds crunch.
  2. Toss the pieces with salt so they are evenly coated. Leave at room temperature or in the fridge for about 2 hours. A plate or something light on top helps press the pieces and draws moisture out faster. The salt takes much of the grassy edge off.
  3. Rinse the salt off under cold water and drain well. Taste a piece: it should be crisp and mild, not salty or still strongly grassy.
  4. Dress lightly with Sichuan pickled chili and vinegar. I like just enough liquid to coat the sticks without pooling in the bowl. Let sit a few minutes, taste, and adjust.
  5. Serve cold or at room temperature as a side or appetizer.

Notes

  1. Do not peel. The skin is part of the texture; only trim the stem and blossom ends and take out the seed.
  2. The salt step is the main trick. Do not skip it or shorten it much if the chayote tastes too green when raw.
  3. After rinsing, the salad should taste clean and fresh. If it is still grassy, another short salt rest or a longer first rest helps.
  4. Keep the sauce light. Heavy soy or lots of oil will cover the fruity crunch that makes this worth making.

Thoughts

I reach for pickled chili and vinegar here because they add heat and tang without weighing the dish down. Chayote already has a light, almost pear-like sweetness when the grassiness is gone; a heavy dressing would hide that. Same idea as other cold Sichuan pickles: season to highlight the vegetable, not to replace it.